i was working to converting my x axis back to a single mgn9 and was reading the cw2 doesn't support that and would need a different extruder due to how it's mounted and sorta jumped on the lgx lite bandwagon due to it's sleekness. I was quite impressed with the Orbiter V1.5 on my V0.1 with Dragon SF.ġ00% agree. Will mount a ebb36 to the back and not used the 2 piece PCB anymore. I have ordered now the Orbiter V2.0 and a Sherpa Mini to give them a spin. The 2 piece SB PCB will not fit the extruder that said it will also not fit with any other of the Extruder such as orbiter, Sherpa, etc. For me it was a downgrade coming from CW2. I am not convinced of LGX Lite backlash is massive on this extruder, pushing force is less than on the CW2. Very occasionally loses sync or whatever though. Also switched to running the wires in through the top edge in a umbilical style, I think it puts less pressure on the wires if you don't print tall very often, pretty sure the drag chain killed one of the wires when I was using it.Ĭanbus is better than running 20 wires in, and even though I've had to replace one wire so far, testing 4 connections is easier than 20. My standards are not that high and I have no idea if there is a lot of backlash or not, works for my functional prints. Printing ABS at 40mm3 (if I remember correctly, might be 30). Made an ugly attachment for the BIQU canbus board, wires are naked on the side. However, I've had no issues with extruder so far, using Stealthburner with LGX lite (link several posts above) and Rapido hot end with CHT nozzle. I can't say if it's good or not because I came from a very old 3d printer so everything is way better I just figured it would be interesting to give some background on what is happening under the hood.Not sure if this helps but I went canbus right away with lgx lite. 1 seconds of Pressure Advance with the Orbiter or most other high-end solutions. This all is not important if running direct drive since we rarely need more than. We do not want to reach the point where we start reducing the effectiveness of the pressure advance. You can configure the smoothing time if you really are pushing things, but the stock value is adequate. Instead, it smooths out the max values and extends them slightly to the same end result. With Klipper, it is not a problem and it does not reduce the acceleration as the extruder hits its ceiling. So, a stock 300 really needs 1.9 and that doubles print times on RRF. With direct drive, it does not matter as much, but with Bowden and high values, Marlin and RRF have a hard time keeping up and end up slowing the print a lot to maintain the max acceleration for the extruder in firmware. I found some cool diagrams that show the improvements with Klipper pressure advance compared to regular Linear Advance (LA) and PA with the smooth pressure advance algorithm. If slicer does not have that, then enter it into your start code and name that profile for the filament you calibrated. Enter the corresponding value in your slicer’s filament gcode override.Find the line that stays most uniform at the speed changes marked by the top two vertical lines.Save the file, making sure the extension is.Klipper is SET_PRESSURE_ADVANCE ADVANCE=.Use find and replace to find M900 K and replace it with the respective values:.Download and open in notepad, or some other simple editor that does not format text.Add a T2000 after the P500 on the acceleration line.
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